When it comes to curly hair, protein treatments are either part of our holy hair grail, or are left unused, collecting dust. As someone with fine, low-porosity curly hair, I have at times been too afraid to use protein, especially as I have heard that low-porosity hair tends to be more susceptible to protein sensitivity.
But here’s the thing: from time to time I use protein to keep my hair bouncy, free of breakage, and to prevent my curls from becoming stringy.
I limit my protein treatments to once a month at most, using Moogoo’s protein leave-in conditioner and Curlsmith's Bond Curl Rehab Salve (a curly version of Olaplex, though note that Olaplex isn't a protein treatment). While I'm convinced that protein treatments strengthen and improve my curls' elasticity, doubts sometimes creep in - am I using enough, or am I one step away from protein overload? This uncertainty often leads people to believe they are protein sensitive when in reality, they may be mistaking it for other issues, ultimately causing them to skip protein out of their curly hair routine altogether.
How do you know if protein truly belongs in your hair routine or if it’s just a gimmick to sell more products? And how can you tell if your hair thrives on protein or reacts negatively to it?
Am I Protein Sensitive?
Not too long ago, I came across an intriguing newsletter email by Ecoslay discussing protein sensitivity and it made me question if I was really protein sensitive.
For years, I was convinced I had protein-sensitive hair – but what if I had been wrong all along? What if the real issue wasn't protein sensitivity, but rather how I was using protein products?
This curiosity has driven me to dig deeper into the subject of protein sensitivity and I have realised how misunderstood it often is. Hair is primarily made of protein, - 91% of it, to be exact. This protein, known as keratin, is formed by amino acids. So, protein plays a vital role in maintaining healthy, strong and bouncy hair. And if your diet lacks protein, your hair can become dull and brittle. To address this, you have two main options:
1- Increase your protein intake through your diet or supplements
2- Incorporate protein treatments into your haircare
Dietary protein is crucial for overall health, serving as a building block for muscles, bones, skin, and hair.
According to the British Heart Foundation ‘Our bodies need 0.75g of protein per kg of bodyweight a day.’ So by maintaining a balanced diet and prioritising protein on a day to day basis, you’ll be taking a significant step towards improving your hair health.
What is Protein Sensitivity?
So, what exactly is protein sensitivity and how can you recognise it? Protein sensitivity occurs when your hair becomes overly stiff, dry, brittle, or straw-like after using protein-rich products. It’s not just about protein overload; your hair can also react poorly if you’re not using protein treatments correctly. For example, using a product with too much protein for your hair type or leaving it on for too long can cause your hair to become stiff or break easily.
Protein sensitivity often results from improper product usage, rather than an inherent inability of the hair to handle protein. This is why it’s so important to follow the instructions on products and adjust them based on your hair’s needs.
What About Protein Treatments?
But what about protein treatments? Are they just an unnecessary step to an already crowded curly hair routine? Protein treatments are often misunderstood and seen as an extra, unneeded step. However, when used properly, they can help restore and strengthen your hair.
Many of us mistake the misuse of protein-based products for protein sensitivity. Just last week, I coated my hair with Curlsmith’s Bond Curl Rehab Salve, and it was the first time I used it on wet hair. This is why it's so important to read the instructions on product labels. I know it seems obvious, but it’s not always so clear. We've all had that moment of realising we've been using a product completely wrong for a long time.
Signs of Protein Deficiency and Misuse
Rather than focusing solely on whether you are protein sensitive, look for signs of protein deficiency. If you avoid protein for too long, your hair may become more susceptible to damage and lose elasticity over time. Recognising protein deficiency in your hair involves watching for several distinct signs that can appear across all hair types.
One of the most noticeable signs of protein deficiency is when your hair becomes limp, stringy, and unusually dull. Another sign is low elasticity, which you can test by stretching a wet strand of hair – healthy hair should stretch and bounce back without breaking. Excessive shedding is also a red flag. If you're losing more than the normal 100 hairs a day, you might be experiencing a protein imbalance.
It’s also important to recognise that colour-treated hair is more vulnerable and requires extra care. The use of dye or bleach can significantly alter the hair's structure, weakening its bonds and making it more prone to protein loss and breakage.
Maximising Protein Treatment Effectiveness
Through my research, I’ve discovered that combining protein treatments with heat can significantly improve their effectiveness. I'll admit – I rarely followed this advice before. While many products work well on their own, if you're not seeing the results you want, try using a deep conditioning heat cap. This is particularly important for those with low porosity hair, where products tend to sit on the surface rather than penetrating the hair shaft.
Other Reasons for Protein Sensitivity - Why Your Hair Appears to be Sensitive to Protein
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You are using the wrong type of protein for your hair type - thin or fine hair can easily be weighed down by heavy proteins, which is why lightweight proteins are much more suitable for this hair type. Look for amino acids or peptides in the ingredient list of your protein products if you have this hair type, and especially if you have low porosity hair. Heavier proteins, such as keratin, are ideal for those with thick, coarse, highly porous, or damaged hair.
Knowing if you need more or less protein in your hair routine depends on a combination of your hair’s thickness and porosity. Those with fine, high porosity hair will need the most protein, whereas those with coarse low porosity hair will need the least. Similarly, coloured hair will require more frequent treatments to maintain its health and strength.
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You are not following up with a moisturising conditioner - protein treatments can be drying on their own, so be sure to follow up with a moisturising conditioner, which will help ensure that you get the protein moisture balance right.
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You did not clarify your hair beforehand - failing to clarify before using a protein treatment can hinder its effectiveness due to existing build up. Shampooing your hair before applying a protein treatment will ensure that the treatment can penetrate through your strands, while maximising its benefits.
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You use protein products too frequently - too much protein can lead to protein overload - causing stiff, brittle, and straw-like hair due to excessive protein bonds reducing hair elasticity. And yet what is meant by 'too much' varies by your hair type (porosity and thickness) and the condition of your hair. High porosity and chemically treated hair might benefit from weekly mild protein treatments, while low porosity hair typically needs protein only every 4-6 weeks. More intensive treatments, like Aphogee Two-Step Protein Treatment, should be used less frequently (every 4-6 weeks) regardless of hair type. The key is understanding that protein treatment frequency depends on both your hair's needs and the strength of the product - some products contain mild proteins which are safe for frequent use, while others are more potent and require longer breaks between applications.
Signs of Protein Overload
- Hair that feels hard and crispy even when wet
- Excessive breakage and snapping
- Hair that doesn't stretch (lacks elasticity)
- A dry, rough texture that doesn't improve even with moisturising
- Hair that sounds squeaky or crunchy when touched
What makes protein overload particularly challenging to identify is how closely it resembles damaged hair. Your hair looks lifeless, it has lost its elasticity, it feels brittle and is straw-like - and in a way, your hair is damaged, just not in the same way as heat damage or colour damage.
But is it reversible?
Before you grab the scissors (I have too many hair horror stories to let you go through that), consider temporarily pausing all protein treatments and products, whilst focusing on moisture-based products until your hair regains its natural balance.
This recovery period might take several weeks or months, depending on the severity of the protein overload so patience is needed (unless you are ready to get the scissors out, which is fine too.)
Interestingly, protein overload is more prevalent with those who have low porosity hair as these strands already have a tight cuticle layer that retains protein well. Whereas high porosity hair tends to need more protein since it has gaps in the cuticle that allow protein to escape more easily (so it is very unlikely for you to have high porosity hair and protein overload — but not impossible.)
How to Prevent Protein Overload & other Protein Related Issues
Preventing protein overload begins with establishing a mindful haircare routine. Start by paying attention to how your hair feels after protein treatments, healthy hair should feel stronger. If your curls start to feel extremely dry and look brittle this is a sign to reduce protein use.
Be sure to use protein treatments as instructed, resist the urge to add an extra ten minutes or let it soak whilst you are out doing errands.
Balance is key. Alternate between protein treatments and moisturising products to maintain optimal hair health. And depending on the type and strength of protein, you might be able to get away with using protein more regularly.
So rather than guessing whether you need to go for a protein based product or a moisturising product, you can determine your hair's needs by performing a strand test. This simple method helps identify whether your hair is dehydrated or lacks protein. To do this, take a wet or dry strand of hair and gently stretch it, being careful not to break it.
If the strand doesn’t stretch easily, snaps quickly, or feels dry, brittle, or rough, it indicates that your hair needs more moisture. However, if the strand stretches but doesn’t bounce back into shape and feels gummy or mushy, it suggests that your hair may need more protein.
When in doubt, consult a curly hair specialist or reach out to a sales associate or the customer service team at a beauty supply store for assistance. They can help you find suitable protein-based products for your specific hair type and needs, ensuring you achieve the right protein-moisture balance.
Protein Product Recommendations
When it comes to protein-based products for your textured hair, finding the right product can transform your curls from lifeless to bouncy and defined over time (and some might even act as ‘miracle’ instant products but trust me, if you want your hair to be transformed you should develop a consistent hair care routine).
However, it's important to remember that different hair types have varying protein needs, and what works for one person may not work for another. The key is to experiment and do some research before clicking ‘add to basket’ but don’t worry, just check out our suggestions below:
Always perform a patch test before trying a new protein treatment or protein-based product. For protein treatments specifically, start with a processing time shorter than the recommended duration and carefully observe how your curls respond before proceeding with the full treatment.
Building a Protein-Friendly Routine
Creating a protein-friendly routine doesn’t have to be complicated. As long as you listen to your hair’s needs you should be able to maintain healthy, bouncy curls without risking protein overload. Still unsure about how to proceed? Follow my protein-enriched curly hair routine:
I start by cleansing my hair before using the Curlsmith Bond Curl Rehab Salve (5/5). The instructions suggest simply soaking your hair with water, which I do at times, but after doing some research and realised I preferred starting on a clean base. So, I use my favourite shampoo first and then apply the Curlsmith Bond Curl Rehab Salve, a powerful bond-building pre-shampoo treatment that strengthens damaged hair.
The Curlsmith website recommends:
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Low Porosity: Use every 4-5 wash days for 15 minutes.
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Medium Porosity: Use every 3-4 wash days for 20 minutes.
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High Porosity: Use every 2-3 wash days for 30 minutes.
Since I have low porosity hair, I use the treatment regularly, though realistically about once a month. I like to keep my routine simple, and my hair is fairly healthy. If it were in worse condition, I would definitely use it more often, but you don’t need unhealthy hair to benefit from protein treatments. The Bond Curl Rehab Salve helps repair and protect hair from damage, making it a great addition to any routine. I have been using this product for over a year now, and I have definitely noticed my curls becoming healthier, shinier, and bouncier over time.
After rinsing out the protein treatment, I move on to shampooing and then conditioning my hair. When it comes to conditioner, the Curlsmith Multitasking Conditioner (5/5) has quickly become my new favourite (what can I say? I love Curlsmith.) I gave it a 5/5 because it has amazing slip, leaves my hair incredibly soft, and provides just the right amount of protein support to keep my hair strong. As a fine-haired girlie, I love its lightweight formula. It also has a low protein content, making it perfect for low porosity hair.
I use it as a deep conditioner with heat because I have low porosity hair, though it's versatile enough for all hair types and according to Curlsmith, it even works for straight hair.
For styling, I recommend using the Curlsmith Bouncy Strength Volume Foam (3.5/5). This lightweight, protein-rich styler adds incredible volume to the hair whilst strengthening the curls. I pair the foam with the Curlsmith Hydro Style Flexi Jelly (4.5/5), a versatile styling gel that offers a medium hold with hydration. The protein-infused formula helps maintain curl definition, without weighing down hair, whilst preventing frizz, making it an essential part of my styling routine.
Between washes, refresh your curls with the Cheg Musthave Hair Protein Drops (3.5/5) to provide extra protein into your routine. I also use the protein drops as a finishing ‘oil’ after styling my hair. Apply daily or as needed, either directly to your hair or mixed with styling products.
Note about ratings: my ratings are subjective. I rated the volume foam a 3.5 because I prefer definition but it is a great product, in fact even on dry hair the foam brings out beautiful curls. The protein drops also got a 3.5 because I’m still trying them out and will see the impact over time. However, I’m confident that with long-term use, your hair will benefit from all of these products, and in the short term, your curls will definitely be popping.
Final Thoughts
Using protein in your hair isn’t something to fear… Unless you are particularly heavy-handed with products (I definitely am.)
Protein is a vital component for maintaining healthy, bouncy curls.
Many of us make the assumption that we are protein sensitive and it’s an easy mistake to make, especially if you have low porosity hair which can survive a little longer without protein, when our hair actually thrives on protein, particularly if we have fine, colour-treated, or damaged hair.
Beyond moderation, there are certain steps that you can take to reduce the risk of protein overload, such as always clarifying your hair beforehand, pairing protein treatments with a moisturising conditioner, choosing proteins suitable for your hair type, and paying attention to the frequency of use.
TOP TIP: While some brands, like Carol’s Daughter, suggest weekly treatments, it’s crucial to listen to your hair’s unique needs and follow product instructions carefully. Protein overload can cause breakage or in extreme cases, permanent damage, but this is easily avoided with proper application and timing. The goal isn’t to avoid protein altogether but to use it strategically for stronger, healthier curls.
Still have questions about using protein in your curly hair routine? Leave a comment down below or reach out to our friendly team at support@kiyobeauty.com.
